Send me these five things and you get an exact price
- Year, make and model — two cars of the same year can take different keys.
- What you need — a spare, a lost key, a lockout, a fob.
- Whether a key still works, and whether the car starts with a button — this is what decides $160 or $200.
- Where the car is — inside Winnipeg the trip is free; outside it there is a travel fee, and I tell you the all-in number before I set off.
- A photo of your key, or your VIN — it lets me bring the exact key instead of guessing.
A VIN identifies your car. It doesn’t open it.
Your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is your car’s 17-character serial number. To a locksmith it answers one question: exactly which vehicle is this? Year, make, model and trim — and from that, which key blank, transponder chip or remote fob the car left the factory with. That is what I use it for, and nothing else.
Here is the part many drivers don’t realize: your VIN is already visible to anyone. Manufacturers stamp it on a small plate at the base of the windshield, readable from outside — anyone walking past your car in a parking lot can see it. It is also printed on your registration and insurance papers. That is by design: a VIN is an identifier, like the serial number on a laptop, not a password.
On its own, a VIN opens nothing. It contains no door code and no way to start the engine. Turning a VIN into a working key still requires equipment at the vehicle — and a legitimate locksmith will not touch that step without proof of ownership, which is exactly the in-person check I describe below.
Why I ask for a photo of your key
Car keys look alike, but they aren’t. A plain metal key, a transponder (chip) key, a remote-head key, a flip key, a fobik, a smart proximity key — each uses a different blank, a different chip and different programming, and each carries a different price.
One clear photo tells me in seconds which type your car actually uses. That lets me quote the real, all-in price — key, cutting, programming and taxes included — settled before I drive out. Without it I would be judging from year and model alone, and that can miss: the same model year can exist with two different key styles. The photo is what removes the “it turned out to be a different fob” surprise at your car.
And if you have no key left to photograph — all keys lost — the VIN carries the load instead: it tells me which key your car takes, so I arrive with the right blank and a price already agreed.
What I check before any key is made
Before I cut or program anything, I check two things at the vehicle, in person: your vehicle registration and a matching photo ID. Every job, no exceptions — it is a standard part of how I operate.
This step is what protects you as an owner. It is the reason someone cannot photograph the VIN through your windshield and have a key made to your car: without registration and an ID that matches it, the work simply does not happen. And because the check is done face-to-face at the car, it cannot be talked around over the phone or by message.
What I do with your info
The photo and VIN you send are used for one thing: identifying your key and preparing your quote. They stay in the chat or email you sent them in. I don’t sell your information, I don’t pass it to third parties, and I don’t add you to marketing lists. If I photograph your registration and ID at the car, as a record that the key was made for the owner, that photo stays on my phone only, is never shared, and is deleted within 12 months. The full details are in my Privacy Policy.
Curious what keys cost?
All my prices are public and all-in — taxes, cutting and programming included. See the pricing page, or text a photo of your key for your exact number. You pay only once the key works.
1-year warranty on my work · No call-out fee — you pay only for the result.
Frequently asked questions
- Can someone steal my car with just the VIN?
- No. A VIN identifies the vehicle — it does not unlock it or start it, and it is already visible through your windshield to anyone walking past. To have a key made, a person has to show vehicle registration and a matching photo ID in person at the car, which is exactly what I check before any work.
- Where do I find my VIN?
- The easiest spots: the small metal plate at the base of the windshield on the driver’s side (readable from outside), the sticker in the driver’s door jamb, and your vehicle registration or insurance papers. It is 17 characters, letters and numbers.
- Do I have to send a photo of my key?
- No — you can simply call and describe your key. But when you send a photo, the quote is exact: I identify the precise blank and fob type, so the all-in price is settled before I head out and nothing changes at your car.
- What proof do you check on-site?
- Your vehicle registration and a photo ID that matches it, checked in person at the car before any key is cut or programmed. It is a standard part of every job — and it is what protects you as the owner.
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Text a photo of your key (and your VIN if it’s handy) — or just call. Mobile auto locksmith serving Winnipeg & nearby, 7 days a week.
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